Running a fashion brand with global growth aspirations in a country that has always been caught up with unswerving domestic obsession for wedding couture isn’t an easy proposition. And yet I’ve observed ace fashion designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee serve both segments with equal alacrity.
Hence, it’s hardly surprising that I chose to collaborate with Swedish Fast Fashion brand H&M. Through the multinational garment behemoth, Sabyasachi gets a ready marketing bullhorn to amplify his own brand. Hit by the pandemic, the driving force is obvious. But even without it, there’s no valid reason why he shouldn’t. Or wouldn’t. Versace, Choo, Lagerfeld – all of them have done it to their advantage, after all.
But then the trolling on social media against the tie-up gets overwhelming. It grows loud enough to invoke cancel culture. And louder still to evoke an ‘unapology’ from Sabyasachi – smart in its seeming remorse for the blink-and-miss sale (‘I know a lot of people are disappointed, and I profoundly apologise for it’) yet resolute in doing an encore given half a chance (‘There is a market ready for each one of us, and there is only one secret to unlock it – just be yourself… Shamelessly.’)
Later when an open letter authored by textile revivalist Laila Tyabji, Jaya Jaitly of Dastkar Haat Samiti and artisans of Sanganer emerges citing pain for the missed opportunity in fame and fortune for Indian artisans that they claim Sabyasachi’s collection could bring, the ace designer holds that Indian crafts and the artisanal belong to the world of luxury – both in price and positioning; not the high street.
These are all fair arguments. And they should carry on. But the fact is, for a renowned brand in the Business of Indian Fashion, we have one Indian Designer of eminence who understands how to sustain and scale his fashion enterprise. And very importantly, how to build a brand, brick by brick. So when he spots an opportunity to take his brand global, he grabs it. Consumers lap up his ‘Wanderlust’ collection.
A brand can hardly grow without vision and a big chunk of risk-taking. Sabyasachi’s vision is clear – to bring his brand to the world. The risk is watering down his luxury connect. Yes, there are brands like Chanel, Prada, Burberry, Hermès and Louis Vuitton that never indulge in high street collaborations. But Sabyasachi is far from achieving the status they do. He needs to get there.
So what does he do to raise awareness for his brand? When he wants to reach new markets in newer geographies? When he wants to extend brand categories? When he wants to boost his appeal among a younger clientele? Or simply infuse more cash in his business? He simply follows his instinct. And like we know, in business, as much as in life, that’s always a good thing.
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